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Post by Elly on Jan 14, 2006 2:39:52 GMT 10
Campbeltown Harbour At the head of a deep loch sheltered by Davaar Island and surrounded by hills lies Campbeltown, one of the largest towns in Argyll. 38 miles south of Tarbert on the A83 it really does seem like you've reached the end of the road, but this is the ideal base for exploring scenic southern Kintyre. The town originally known as Kinlochkilkerran, was renamed in the 1600s by the then Earl of Argyll, the Chief of the Clan Campbell. It became one of the main points for immigration from the Lowlands and grew in importance and economic strength. Its heyday was during the Victorian era, when its shipbuilding was strong, its fishing fleet vast and it seemed there was a distillery, or several, on every street. The decline of these industries heralded a decline of the town's fortunes. Only one distillery, Springbank lasted through to the present day and its fishing has been ravaged by the imposition of controversial EU quotas. Campbeltown Centre Campbeltown Heritage Centre Distant View of the Harbour But the old Victorian splendour of Campbeltown did seem to be thrown a lifeline in the closing years of the last century. A new car ferry link was established with Ballycastle in Northern Ireland. But it only lasted two years and then ceased. There is new hope, however, as moves are afoot to re-establish the route. Watch this space... There is also something of a revival of the distillery industry under way. Springbank has a new malt in production, Hazelburn. It takes its name from an traditional brand, with the first of the new batch due for bottling in 2006. Springbank has since acquired another old site and has ambitions to add a further brand. Meanwhile, Glen Scotia was acquired by the Loch Lomond Distillery Company in the second half of the 1990s. Having refitted the distillery, they began production of the first Glen Scotia for many years in the first distilling season of the new millennium. It was once said that there were 34 distilleries and almost as many churches in Campbeltown. Though most distilleries are gone it seems many of the churches survive, if not in their original use. One such change of use is of the former Lorne Street Church, which is now the Campbeltown Heritage Centre. The building itself is most striking, with its stripy bell-cote and pinnacles and is locally referred to as The Tartan Kirk. Open daily during the summer months only, the Heritage Centre has displays on the whisky industry and exhibits relating to the 6th Century St Kieran, the Apostle of Kintyre. Kieran lived in a cave nearby, which can be visited, but is only accessible at low tide. Another place to visit is Davaar Island which, like St Kieran's cave, can only be accessed at low tide. A mile long causeway leads from the mainland to the island where, in a cave, a painting of the Crucifixion mysteriously appeared in 1887. The mystery was solved when, in 1934, a local artist, Archibald MacKinnon, claimed the work. The following year, at the age of 85, he returned to renovate it. Other places and points of interest in the town itself include the 'Wee Picture House', an art deco cinema on Hall Street. Built in 1913, it now doubles as cinema and bingo hall. The Campbeltown Cross is a major sight on the quayside. Dating from the 1300s it is blue-green in colour and contains scenes intertwined with elaborate Celtic knotwork. Main Street Askomill: North Side of the Loch Distant View of the Harbour Heritage Centre
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Post by Elly on Jan 14, 2006 2:52:37 GMT 10
Inveraray Inveraray Jail Inveraray enjoys a picturesque setting on the shores of Loch Fyne, where it meets Loch Shira. It was built on the site of an earlier fishing village in the mid 1700s by the 3rd Duke of Argyll, chief of the powerful Clan Campbell. He demolished the old village to build a grand castle and rehoused the population in attractive Georgian houses on a new Main Street. Inveraray Main Street The Duke also built a church, All Saints, in elegant neo-classical style. In consideration of local culture, it was divided into two parts so that services could be held in both English and Gaelic. Looking South from Inveraray Inveraray Castle A later addition, a memorial to the Campbells who fell in World War I, is the Bell Tower, which opens to visitors during the summer months. There are 10 bells in the Tower, reputedly the second heaviest peel in the world. The views from the top of the Tower are outstanding. Inveraray Jail also dates to the 3rd Duke's redevelopment of the town. The Georgian courthouse and grim prison blocks closed for use in the 1930s but have been re-opened as an imaginative visitor centre and museum. The museum tells the story of prison conditions from medieval times up to the 1800s using interactive displays and live performances. Inveraray Jail is open daily throughout the year. Moored at the town pier is the Arctic Penguin, a triple-masted schooner built in Dublin in 1911. Its 21st Century use is as a museum of maritime history. The Arctic Penguin is open all year. Inveraray Castle, on the edge of the town, is still the family home of the Dukes of Argyll. Building began in 1746 and despite two major fires, in 1877 and 1975, most important artifacts have survived. There is outstanding furniture and paintings by Gainsborough, and a huge arsenal of weaponry including the dirk, the traditional highland dagger, used by Rob Roy. Close by and also worth visiting is the Argyll Wildlife Park, open daily all year and 3 miles south of Inveraray along the A83 towards Campbeltown. Three miles further on is Auchindrain Folk Museum, telling of life before the Clearances. The museum is open during the summer months only. Four miles further still is Crarae Garden, set in a deep glen overlooking Loch Fyne. The Garden is open all year. Inveraray Across Loch Shira
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Post by Elly on Jan 14, 2006 3:06:17 GMT 10
History of Inveraray Jail Inveraray, the seat of the Duke of Argyll, was for many centuries the principal county town of Argyll. From the mid 18th century the courts met in the Town House on Front Street, and the ground floor below the courtroom served as the county prison. There the prisoners: "walked in a grated piazza in front of their Cells, just in line of the principal street, and exposing the miserable appearance of their apartments and furniture to shock the feelings of every passer bye" There were so many escapes from this building that at times the townspeople had to take turns in guarding it. Judges threatened to move the courts from Inveraray unless new premises were found and the old prison abandoned A site for the new Courthouse and Prison was found and plans were drawn up in 1807 by the well known Edinburgh architect Robert Reid. These plans, which included separate prison blocks for men, women and debtors, had to be shelved owing to lack of funds. Reid’s proposals were, however, later adapted by the architect James Gillespie Graham. He simplified the design of the courthouse and reduced the prison accommodation to one eight cell block. Work started on the new buildings in 1816 and was completed in 1820. The Jail and Courthouse opened in 1820 and remained unchanged until 1843 when the Airing Yards were built. These were to provide a secure place where prisoners could be exercised in the open air. In 1848 the New Prison, or Men's Prison, was completed. This was a model prison for its day with 12 individual cells, a water closet on every floor, accommodation for warders, a store room and indoor exercise gallery. It was also well heated and lit by gas, a far cry from the dark and damp original prison building. The Jail finally closed on the 30th of August 1889. By this time, in comparison to the larger city prisons, the smaller county jails tended to be expensive and inefficient to run. As a town Inveraray gradually declined in importance. It was difficult to reach and with the disappearance of the herring, it was no longer a significant fishing port. The Circuit Court met only twice in Inveraray after 1900, and moved to Oban in 1953. Despite local protests, the Sheriff Court was removed to Dunoon in 1954. The rarely used courthouse and empty prisons gradually fell into disrepair. Fortunately their significance as the finest 19th century county courthouse and prison in Scotland was recognised. An extensive restoration was undertaken by the Scottish Office and in May 1989, almost a hundred years exactly after the last prisoners departed, Inveraray Jail opened to the public.
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Post by Elly on Jan 14, 2006 3:20:24 GMT 10
Inveraray Castle Inveraray Castle is a remarkable and unique piece of architecture incorporating Baroque, Palladian and Gothic. Featuring four imposing French influenced conical spires surmounting the stone castelated towers, this unmistakably Scottish Castle was the first of its size and type to be built (at the time of construction) in an extremely remote part of Scotland. History of the Campbells The Campbells arrived in Argyll as part of a royal expedition in c.1220. They settled on Lochaweside where they were placed in charge of the King's lands in the area. The Chief of Clan Campbell takes his Gaelic title of 'MacCailein Mor' from Colin Mor Campbell - 'Colin the Great' who was killled in 1296, and was succeeded by his son Sir Neil Campbell, companion and brother-in-law of King Robert the Bruce. From Bruce's time, the family headquarters had been the great castle at Innischonnell on Loch Awe, and remained so until the 1400's when Sir Duncan Campbell (great grandson of Sir Colin) moved to to Inveraray. He was created Lord Campbell and thereafter a steady string of titles were awarded to the family. His grandson was created Earl of Argyll in 1457. Archibald, the 2nd Earl was killed at Flodden in 1513 and was the first of the family to be granted the appointment of Master of the Royal Household in Scotland, a priveledge still held by the Duke today. The 5th Duke was another military hero commanding a force of his own people which exceeded in strength the existing armies of France and England; he was power of international importance and only fell in defeat when in command of the army of Mary Queen of Scots in 1568. The 8th Earl was thrown in the tower and subsequently executed for taking the side of Oliver Cromwell over Charles 2nd and the fortunes of the House of Argyll were down until the Glorious Revolution in 1688. The 10th Earl was granted the Dukedom in 1701 due to the regiment he raised for the crown, known as the Earl of Argyle's Regiment of Foot. This was the unit tasked with carrying out the notorious Massacre of Glencoe, an episode inaccurately classed as an act of clan vengeance by the Campbells. The 2nd Duke was a famous soldier who commanded the Government Army at the Battle of Sheriffmuir which ended the Jacobite Rebellion of 1715 and was one of the first two officers in the British Army to be promoted to the rank of Field Marshall. He was created the Duke of Greenwich but the title lapsed without a direct male heir. His successor was his brother who became the 3rd Duke of Argyll, another distinguished soldier who subsequently became Lord Justice General of Scotland. The 4th and 5th Dukes were both renown soldiers and the far seeing efforts of the 5th Duke were almost destroyed by the 6th, a charming but dissolute playboy who left a string of debts and illegitimate children. His brother, the 7th Duke fought hard to avoid disaster and the family fortunes were, to an extent, restored by the time of the 8th Duke, who was a successful politician, a Cabinet Minister and Renaissance Man. It was the 8th Duke's son and heir who married Queen Victoria's daughter, Princess Louise, thereafter serving as Govener General of Canada before succeeding as 9th Duke. They had no children and the title went to a nephew, Niall, 10th Duke, a scholarly recluse. He never married and the title passed to his cousin. The 11th Duke, Ian, was a gallant officer taken prisoner with most of the Highland Division in France in 1940. He was married 4 times, with the infamous Margaret Argyll as his third wife. His son, also Ian, succeeded him and became the 12th Duke, the present Duke's late father. The 12th Duke laboured hard to restore the Argyll name and became the Lord Lieutenant of Argyll and Bute as well as meticulously carrying out the traditional duties of the Clan Chief of the Campbells. His passion for the family and clan meant that he worked tirelessly following the terrible castle fire in the early 1970's to restore the castle to the high standard it is in today. The present Duke, Torquhil Ian, inherited the title on the death of his father in 2001. He combines his duties as Duke, Clan Chief and Landowner with a full-time job with Pernod Ricard, promoting Scotch Whiskies including Chivas Regal and Glenlivet. He recently captained Scotland to victory in the World Elephant Polo Championships.
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Post by Elly on Jan 14, 2006 4:16:07 GMT 10
Oban Oban stands unchallenged as the capital of the western seaboard of Scotland. It was a late starter, existing only as a small fishing and trading village until the steamers of the early Victorian era started arriving in ever greater numbers. It became the main point of departure for the Western Isles and a regular stopping-off point for the steamers linking Inverness with Glasgow via the Caledonian and Crinan canals. And the arrival of the railway in 1880 only confirmed its growing status. Oban Harbour from McCaig's Tower Oban Ferry Terminal The North Pier The Mull Ferry in Harbour But there's much more to Oban than simply somewhere you transfer between train and boat. The town itself lies in a crescent that occupies the hills surrounding Oban Bay. The Bay is protected from all but the most severe of weather by the northern tail of the island of Kerrera, which blocks wider seaward views at Esplanade level. For these you need to climb the surrounding hills, from where magnificent westward views extend over the islands of Kerrera and Lismore to Mull and Morvern. Distllery and McCaig's Tower Inside McCaig's Tower St Columba's Cathedral Caledonian Hotel Within Oban the most outstanding feature is McCaig's Tower, more usually and descriptively called McCaig's Folly. This is the Colosseum lookalike that stands above the town and features in many of the postcards you will find for sale in the shops on George Street. The Tower was built by a local banker, unsurprisingly called McCaig, in 1897. The aim was to provide work for local stonemasons and provide a lasting monument to his family. The original intention was to complete it with a large tower placed in the middle, but this, like the intended statues of McCaig's family, never materialised. First time visitors to the tower are in for a surprise. The interior comprises a grassy hilltop, with the wall of the tower encircling it like a crown on an uneven head. These days McCaig's Tower serves three main functions. It is an ideal destination for a hard ten minute uphill walk from the centre of the town; it provides a nice walled garden as a respite from the hustle and bustle of the summer shoppers; and it is a great place from which to take the sea/island/sunset photographs that feature on all the postcards you'll see for sale in Oban that don't actually feature the Tower itself. Well worth a visit while you are in Oban, especially if the weather is unkind, is the Oban Distillery, unusual in being located in the heart of such a busy town. There has been a distillery here since 1794. It can readily be identified by its tall chimney and by its location, almost on the waterfront and immediately underneath McCaig's Folly. It's a shame that they allowed someone to build a brightly painted shop directly in front of the distillery, thereby breaking the visual appeal of the buildings in that part of the town. But that's progress, and was probably agreed at about the time they decided to knock down the town's Victorian railway station in 1988. Guided tours of Oban Distillery can be had for £3.50 per person, a sum that is refunded if you buy a bottle of whisky in the shop at the end of the tour. If you've never seen a distillery in operation it's a fascinating process: all the more so if you have developed a taste for the product. Wherever you turn, though, there's no escaping the fact that Oban exists because of the sea. It is the main ferry terminus for Mull, Colonsay, Coll, Tiree and Lismore; and there are also sailings from here to Barra and South Uist in the Western Isles. Oddly enough, however, to get to Oban's own island, Kerrera, you need first to travel two miles south to Gallanach. Oban is also arguably the centre for the west coast sailing scene, and it also retains a large fishing fleet. On a nice day there's relaxation and enjoyment to be had by simply strolling the waterfront and admiring the boats. Or the really energetic can start The Coast to Coast Walk to St Andrews from here. Overall, Oban is a busy place, and can at times be a crowded place: something that is particularly obvious if approaching the town from the north or east by road in Summer. But the bustle can add to the atmosphere and certainly adds to the number of eating, drinking and shopping opportunities available in the town. And Oban can also be a very attractive place. As a result it has a great deal to offer visitors, whether simply passing through or wanting to stop awhile.
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Post by Elly on Jan 14, 2006 4:29:42 GMT 10
Dunstaffnage Castle Dunstaffnage Castle is located 5 miles north of Oban on the west coast of Scotland. Once the capital of Dalriada, the original Kingdom of the Scots, it was to here that The Stone of Destiny was brought over from Ireland via Iona. In the mid-ninth century with the Norsemen attacking from the west, the seat of power was moved to Scone, near Perth. The Stone was used at the coronations of subsequent Scottish kings until it was taken by Edward I to Westminster Abbey in 1296. The Stone was returned to Scotland on Saint Andrews' Day, 30 November 1996 and can now be seen in Edinburgh Castle. Dunstaffnage Castle looks square and impenetrable with round towers. A MacDougall stronghold until 1309, it was seized by Robert the Bruce who then appointed the Campbell clan as its hereditary keepers in the name of the Crown. Bonne Prince Charlie's heroine, Flora MacDonald, was held prisoner here for a short time in 1746. The castle is now in the care of Historic Scotland. You can also look around the ruined 13th-century chapel if you follow the path down the left-hand side. History recounts that the last Stewart Lord of Lorne died on the threshold whilst reciting his marriage vows. You can see the skull and cross bones symbol on the gravestones. Apparently people have been known to come across old teeth and things scattered around here. Ooooer.... The castle is said to have a ghost in a green dress, apparently a 'glaistig', a fairy woman, heralding events in the lives of the Campbell family. This is a view of the prison tower from the outside. Flora MacDonald was held prisoner here after she helped Prince Charlie to escape dressed as her maid.
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Post by Elly on Jan 14, 2006 4:46:34 GMT 10
Kerrera The northern end of Kerrera looks across at Oban Bay and the town of Oban beyond it. To get to Kerrera you first travel a mile and a half from Oban south to Gallanach. The small ferry from the slipway there transports you across several hundred yards of water: and back several hundred years in time. Cottage and Cart Farmstead Kerrera is a tranquil place, and its 30 residents go to great lengths to keep it that way. The only motor vehicles on the island are those owned by islanders, but as the walk around the whole of the south end of the island is only six miles in length, that is no real hardship. If you visit, the best way to experience the island is to take on the circular walk of southern Kerrera. Tackled clockwise you quickly come to Horseshoe Bay. In more recent times this has been the location of a lobster packing operation. It is perhaps better know as where King Alexander II died, on 8 July 1249. He was poised with a large fleet in Oban Bay to try to retake Western Scotland from the Norwegians when he fell inexplicably ill. On coming ashore from his flagship to recover, he died at Horseshoe Bay. As you come to the southern end of the island you are faced with junction in the path. Ahead of you it continues around the island, while the track to your left leads to Gylen Castle. If you tackle the ten minute walk to the castle first, you will find the path leads you past a rocky beach and then steeply up to an "L" plan tower house, built in 1587. This clings to the peak of a headland that falls away dramatically on all sides. This strong location did the resident MacDougalls little good when Gylen Castle was besieged then burned by Major-General Leslie's Covenanter Army during the Wars of the Covenant in 1647. All those sheltering in the castle were killed during the attack or after surrendering. As you press on around the island you first encounter Kerrera's rocky southern coast, before cutting across a shoulder of land to walk along a footpath fairly high on the western flank of the island. The views west to Mull and north along the length of Kerrera are truly magnificent. As you near completion of your circular tour of Kerrera, you have the option of extending the walk to take in the north end of the island. This takes you past the boatyard at Ardantrive, looking across to Oban. On high ground at the very north end of Kerrera is the obelisk that serves as a memorial to David Hutcheson, one of the founders of what became Caledonian Macbrayne. Gylen Castle on The Island of Kerrera in The Bay of Oban Gylen, located on the Southern promontory of the beautiful island of Kerrera out in the bay of Oban. Gylen was built Ca. 1582-1587 in the time of Dougall, the 15th chief, by Duncan MacDougall, who was either the brother or the son of the chief. It was certainly constructed as a fortified residence. On a nearly impregnable sea-cliff site, it was designed to the best defensive strategies of its time. It has heavy walls, guarded entrances, gun loops, gun ports, and observation outlooks on all sides. Its design was not entirely utilitarian, however. Not only is it surrounded by glorious scenery on all sides, but clearly, great care, artistry and craftsmanship went into its construction. Many very interesting features such as a crowstep gables, corbeled cornices, Romanesque carvings and sculptures of faces and figures, and dogtooth carving around oriel windows all testify to care of design and craftsmanship. Sadly, the descendants of Duncan were able to use and enjoy the protection of Gylen for barely 60 years. In 1647, a detachment of the army of the fanatic Covenanters captured and burned the castle, and slaughtered all who resided and defended therein. In addition to the loss of life and property was the disappearance of the great family treasure, the Brooch of Lorn, which had been captured by MacDougalls from Robert the Bruce in 1306. For the 350 years to the present. the ravages of weather have been gradually eroding and destroying the wonderful features of the castle that survived the fire and war. A little care and protection would preserve it for future generations as one of the most charming little specimens of architecture of (old) Scotland.
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Post by dreamy on Jan 14, 2006 7:28:34 GMT 10
Great info and beautiful pics, Elly! Thank you! I especially loved the Isle of Kerrera. So many beautiful places to visit in bonnie Scotland; it will take me many years and travels to see most of them at least.
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Post by Elly on Jan 14, 2006 15:08:17 GMT 10
there`s a few small islands close to Oban, but will only put Kerrera, Seil and Luing here. Seil is well worth a visit, the road is pretty windy and tedious to drive but its well worth it at the end. Seil Kilbrandon Church Ten miles miles South of Oban on the A816 you come across a minor road heading west signposted to Easdale and, more intriguingly, to the Atlantic Bridge. This is a diversion worth taking. The road leads to the Island of Seil, the most northerly of the Slate Islands. Opinions differ about whether Seil should be counted as an island at all. The Atlantic Bridge or "Bridge Over the Atlantic" mentioned on the signpost links Seil to the mainland. It is more properly known as the Clachan Bridge and was built in 1792/3 for the sum of £450. The single arch of the bridge is 72ft wide and is steeply humped to provide a clearance above high water of 28ft to avoid obstructing the passage of small vessels. Originally designed to have two arches by John Stevenson of Oban, the plans were amended to the single arch that was built by Robert Mylne. Just over the bridge you come to the attractive and welcoming Tigh an Truish Inn. The name means house of the trousers and comes from the period after the 1745 rebellion when kilts were banned. This was the place where islanders heading for the mainland (then without the benefit of the bridge) were said to have swapped their kilts for trousers. The Tigh an Truish Inn Further onto the island, you'll find a pepper-potting of white cottages and more substantial residences throughout the length of the eastern half of Seil. The main settlement on this eastern side is Balvicar, which is now home to the island's main harbour. Balvicar is also the location of the Isle of Seil Golf Club, while the Balvicar Stores lies close to the main spinal road running the length of Seil. Balvicar Stores As you head west from Balvicar the character of the island changes dramatically as scattered habitation and cultivation are swapped for a much rougher and rockier feel. This becomes increasingly true as you approach Ellenabeich, the largest village on Seil (sometimes, very confusingly given the nearby island of the same name, referred to as "Easdale"). A viewpoint signposted from the road to Ellenabeich is one of the finest on the island, giving excellent views west towards Ellenabeich and Easdale Island, with Mull beyond. Ellenabeich From here you begin to understand why the islands of Seil, Easdale, Luing and Belnahua are known as the Slate Islands. The very shape of the landscape around Ellenabeich, and of Easdale Island in particular, have been transformed by an industry that lasted for centuries and which led to the term: "the islands that roofed the world". The industry was already well under way on Easdale Island itself by the mid 1500s, and more widely across the islands from 1745. It continued at Ellenabeich until 1881 and on Easdale Island until 1911. A slate quarry at Balvicar was reopened in the late 1940s and operated sporadically for two decades more. The southern half of Seil is less populous that the northern half, and less visited. The small village of Cuan lies at its southern tip. This is primarily known as the ferry terminus for the five minute crossing to the island of Luing, rather larger but considerably more remote than Seil. En route to Cuan is Kilbrandon & Kilchattan Parish Church, home to a remarkably good collection of stained glass windows, and well worth a visit in its own right. Cuan Seil is an interesting island, and one of remarkable contrasts; plus a history that adds greatly to its fascination. It makes an excellent day out from Oban, and has the added advantage of being one of the few Scottish Islands for which a ferry timetable is not needed. Golf club Kilbrandon Church Luing Ferry with Cuan Beyond
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Post by Elly on Jan 14, 2006 15:29:49 GMT 10
Luing Toberonochy Harbour Since the island of Seil was connected to the mainland by the Clachan Bridge in 1793 there's been a healthy debate about its status as an island: or not. There are no such doubts about the island of Luing, reached by a frequent ferry service across the two hundred yards of the Cuan Sound from the southern tip of Seil. Luing measures some six miles long by one-and-a-half wide, and lies north-south across the mouth of Loch Melfort on the Argyll coast. It is generally low lying, with a maximum height of about 300 feet, and it has a population of around 200. The largest centre of population is at Cullipool in the north west of the island. This attractive village of bright white cottages is set starkly against the slate that makes up its beach, and whose quarrying underpinned the economy of the island for many years. Slate was still being extracted from the quarries at the north end of Cullipool until 1965. At its height the industry employed 170 men on the island and extracted three quarters of a million slates each year. Luing's only shop, the Luing Store, can be found beside the road as it heads into Cullipool, and the village is also the location of the only public toilets on the island. There are, however, more aesthetic reasons to visit Cullipool: it has a reputation for wonderful sunsets framed by the islands to the west, and with the slate revealing that when the light is right it has much more to offer the eye than a uniform dark grey. Cullipool Further south, the road down the spine of takes you past the white-painted Kilchattan Church, part of the joint Kilbrandon and Kilchattan Parish covering Seil and Luing. Further still, you come to Kilchattan Chapel. This fell into disuse in 1685 and is now completely ruined. It provides a wonderful viewpoint across the width of the southern end of Luing, and out to the mountainous island of Scarba to the south west. Kilchattan graveyard itself is a fascinating time capsule. Many of the gravestones would not be out of place in any other highland churchyard, but there are also rows of wafer-thin slate gravestones reflecting the fact that Luing is quite literally made of the stuff. Kilchattan Chapel The graveyard is also the last resting place of Alexander Campbell, who died on 4 November 1829 at the age of 78. A renowned Covenanter, Campbell portrays himself as someone you really wouldn't want to have met in life. He certainly tries to have the last word in death with no fewer than four different stones he carved himself (except for his date of death). His headstone, on the inside of the graveyard wall (and now broken), extolls his virtues in closely argued text. Another stone on the outside of the graveyard wall tries to promote the Covenant to passers by. A third stone, above the second on the outside of the wall, threatens divine judgement on anyone meddling with his memorials. And a fourth, covering his grave, sums the man up: "I protest that none be buried after me in this grave, which I have dug for myself as Jacob did." Alexander Campbell's Grave Just to the east of Kilchattan is the settlement of Toberonochy. This was also once a slate quarrying village. Today it comprises a number of rows of whitewashed cottages, focused on a very attractive village green. At the far end of the village the road continues round to a little harbour, complete with slate beaches and piers: and a profusion of lobster pots and fishing gear. Cottages at Toberonochy On the south west side of Luing is the even smaller settlement of Ardlarach and nearby Black Mill Bay, with imposing views of Scarba and, to the north, a glimpse of the odd rock formation above the beach called the Cobblers of Lorn. Cobblers of Lorn
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Post by Elly on Jan 14, 2006 17:33:45 GMT 10
Oban to Mull Ferry MV Isle of Mull approaching Craignure There are three ferries linking the Isle of Mull to the mainland. But by far the best known and most used is the ferry from Oban to Craignure, near Mull's most easterly point. This has been the main route onto Mull for many years, and certainly since the coming of the car ferries in the 1960s. The Mull ferry, aptly named the Isle of Mull, was built in 1988 at Port Glasgow on the Clyde. It is designed to accommodate up to 80 cars and up to 972 passengers, so providing for the heavy Summer traffic of foot passengers going to Mull to meet coach trips to Iona. The rather more recent tide of younger pilgrims in search of Balamory mean that booking is always a good idea on this route. The crossing takes a little under an hour. Many passengers will simply bag their spot in one of the ship's lounges and pass the journey there. But for those wanting to get the most from the journey, the Isle of Mull is well equipped with promenade decks. Leaving Mull Cafeteria Lounge Your attention at the start of any journey to Mull is captured primarily by the wonderful views of Oban, laid out around its natural amphitheatre and topped off by McCaig's Tower, a part-completed folly built in 1897. Meanwhile, to the seaward side the north end of the Isle of Kerrera is passing you by. The height of the ship allows you views over the island to the mountains of Mull in the distance. The monument atop the north end of Kererra is in memory of David Hutcheson, who founded many of the steamer services to the isles: and in particular the company that became known by the name of his son-in-law, David MacBrayne. This is now Caledonian MacBrayne, or CalMac. Next you pass the marker for the southern tip of the Isle of Lismore: the Eilean Musdile lighthouse. On the opposite side of the ship at this point is the much less obvious Lady's Rock, which is submerged at high tide except for the small light tower that marks it. It is said that in 1523, Lachlan Cattenach, a MacLean of Duart was unable to produce a male heir and blamed his wife, Elizabeth. His solution was to have her "accidentally" stranded on Lady's Rock to await the incoming tide. Lady's Rock About to Disappear Beneath the Rising Tide Elizabeth had disappeared by the following morning and Lachlan sadly reported her death to her brother, the Earl of Argyll. When Lachlan subsequently accepted an invitation to a banquet from the Earl of Argyll at his castle at Inveraray he found Elizabeth sitting next to her brother at the high table. She had been rescued by a passing fisherman. Nothing was said, and Lachlan was allowed to leave unharmed. He was found murdered in Edinburgh, 30 years later. The next landmark is much more obvious, and you can find out more about Duart Castle from our Craignure feature page. The view of the castle from the ferry with Mull's Ben More behind must be one of the most evocative in Scotland. Once past Duart Castle you rapidly approach Craignure, and the rest of your journey is likely to comprise views of the inside of the Isle of Mull's car deck.
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Post by Elly on Jan 15, 2006 4:13:41 GMT 10
Craignure Craignure Pier Craignure lies close to Mull's easternmost point, and it is reasonably equidistant from the island's two main destinations for visitors: Tobermory to the north and Iona to the west. It is therefore a logical place for the main terminus for the ferries from Oban, and for many years that is exactly what it has been. Craignure Village Duart Castle A pier was first built at Craignure in 1894, it can still be seen today near the new village hall. However, the coming of the modern car ferries required rather better facilities and the long pier projecting into the bay was built in 1964. The Craignure Inn Craignure Station, with Ferry Beyond At the pier's landward end is the vehicle park for ferry traffic, and on the other side the sometimes very busy terminus where day passengers to Iona and Staffa catch their coaches after disembarking from the ferry or the bus to Tobermory. Opposite is Mull's main Tourist Information Centre and the village shops. Craignure's second centre is around the south end of Craignure Bay. Here you find the old jetty and the brand new village hall. And here, too, is the Craignure Inn, now 50 years old, but attractively looking much older. If you walk past the village hall you come across a nice shingle beach complete with boats for hire: and nearby is the Craignure caravan and camping site. A couple of hundred yards further is the terminus of the Isle of Mull Railway, also known as the Mull and West Highland Narrow Gauge Railway, the only surviving operational railway on any Scottish Island. This opened in 1984 and was built to provide visitors with a memorable means of travelling from the ferry terminus the mile and a quarter to Torosay Castle (and to within walking distance of Duart Castle). There has been a castle on Duart Point since the 1200s, but much of the keep that forms the most impressive parts of the castle today date back to 1390 and to subsequent additions and alterations. The castle was confiscated from the MacLean family by the crown for their support of the Jacobites, and given to the Campbell Earls of Argyll. Abandoned after 1745, it later became a ruin until acquired by Fitzroy MacLean in 1911 and rebuilt as seen today. Many will recognise it as the home of the character played by Sean Connery in the film Entrapment. Craignure's other claim to fame is that it lies at one end of the only significant stretch of twin track road on Mull, running north west to Salen. All other roads on the island, bar the last couple of miles into Tobermory, are single track roads.
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